Pothos Plant Care: The Complete Guide to Growing Devil's Ivy

Introduction to Pothos

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a tropical vine native to the Solomon Islands in the South Pacific. In its natural habitat, pothos grows as an understory plant, climbing trees with aerial roots that can reach lengths of 40 feet or more. As a houseplant, it remains much more manageable while retaining all the beauty and vigor that makes it such a popular choice.

The nickname "Devil's Ivy" comes from the plant's nearly indestructible nature. It earned this name because it stays green even in low light and can survive considerable neglect. This resilience makes pothos an ideal choice for beginning plant parents, busy households, and challenging growing environments like windowless offices.

Beyond its forgiving nature, pothos offers incredible versatility in home decor. Its trailing vines can cascade from hanging baskets, climb moss poles, drape over shelves, or even grow in water indefinitely. The variety of leaf patterns and colors available means there is a pothos to match any aesthetic.

Pothos is also recognized for its air-purifying qualities. NASA's Clean Air Study found that pothos effectively removes common indoor pollutants including formaldehyde, xylene, and benzene. While you would need many plants to significantly impact air quality, every contribution helps create a healthier indoor environment.

Popular Pothos Varieties

The world of pothos offers stunning variety, from classic green to dramatic variegation. While all pothos share similar care requirements, each variety brings its own unique beauty.

Golden Pothos

The classic golden pothos is the variety most people picture when they think of pothos. It features heart-shaped green leaves splashed with golden yellow variegation. No two leaves are exactly alike, creating dynamic visual interest. This variety is extremely hardy and maintains its variegation even in lower light conditions.

Marble Queen Pothos

Marble Queen is prized for its heavily variegated leaves featuring white and cream marbling against green. Some leaves are nearly pure white, while others are mostly green with subtle marbling. This variety needs brighter light than golden pothos to maintain its variegation and grows slightly slower due to less chlorophyll in its leaves.

Neon Pothos

Neon pothos stands out with its striking chartreuse or lime green leaves. Unlike variegated varieties, every leaf is a consistent bright color that truly seems to glow. Younger leaves emerge even brighter and deepen slightly as they mature. Neon pothos thrives in lower light where its color really pops against darker backgrounds.

Jade Pothos

Also known as Emerald pothos, jade pothos features solid dark green leaves without variegation. Its uniform color and robust growth make it the most low-light tolerant of all pothos varieties. If you have a challenging dark corner, jade pothos is your best bet for success.

Manjula Pothos

Manjula is a patented variety with wide, heart-shaped leaves featuring stunning cream, white, silver, and green variegation. The leaves often have wavy edges, adding extra visual interest. Manjula requires bright indirect light and grows more slowly than common varieties due to its heavy variegation.

N'Joy Pothos

N'Joy features smaller, more compact leaves with clean white and green variegation. The white areas are crisper and more defined than marble queen, without the speckled appearance. This variety stays more compact and is perfect for smaller spaces or tabletop displays.

Cebu Blue Pothos

Cebu Blue stands apart from other pothos with its arrow-shaped leaves that display a unique blue-green or silvery-blue sheen. When given a surface to climb, mature leaves develop fenestrations (natural splits) similar to a monstera. This variety prefers slightly more humidity than other pothos.

Snow Queen Pothos

Snow Queen is like Marble Queen taken to the extreme, with leaves that are predominantly white with green accents rather than the reverse. This high variegation means Snow Queen needs the brightest light of all pothos varieties and grows quite slowly.

Light Requirements

One of pothos's greatest strengths is its adaptability to various light conditions. Understanding how light affects your plant helps you choose the best location and maintain optimal health.

Ideal Light: Bright Indirect Light

Pothos grows best in bright, indirect light. This means a location that receives plenty of natural light without direct sun hitting the leaves. Near an east-facing window, a few feet from a south or west-facing window, or anywhere with good ambient light provides ideal conditions.

In bright indirect light, pothos grows vigorously, produces larger leaves, and maintains strong variegation. This is particularly important for highly variegated varieties like Marble Queen and Snow Queen, which need adequate light for photosynthesis due to their reduced chlorophyll content.

Low Light Tolerance

Pothos can survive in low light conditions that would challenge most houseplants. Offices with only fluorescent lighting, bathrooms with small windows, and north-facing rooms can all support pothos growth. However, low light means slower growth, smaller leaves, and potentially loss of variegation.

In low light, variegated varieties may gradually revert to more solid green as the plant prioritizes photosynthesis efficiency. If you notice your variegated pothos losing its pattern, it is asking for more light.

Direct Sunlight: Proceed with Caution

While pothos can handle some gentle morning sun, intense direct sunlight will scorch the leaves, causing brown patches and bleached spots. This is especially true for highly variegated varieties, where the white portions are particularly susceptible to sun damage.

If your only option is a sunny location, filter the light with a sheer curtain or position the plant where it receives only morning sun rather than harsh afternoon rays.

Signs of Light Problems

Too little light: Slow or no growth, small leaves, loss of variegation, leggy vines with large spaces between leaves.

Too much light: Brown crispy patches, bleached or yellow leaves, wilting, and leaf curl.

Watering Guide

Proper watering is essential for pothos health. While these plants are forgiving, understanding their water needs helps them thrive rather than merely survive.

When to Water

Water your pothos when the top one to two inches of soil feels dry. Insert your finger into the soil to check moisture level rather than following a strict schedule. Environmental factors like light, humidity, temperature, and pot size all affect how quickly soil dries.

Pothos will tell you when they are thirsty. When the plant needs water, its leaves will begin to droop and curl slightly. While it is best to water before this point, pothos will bounce back quickly once watered. This forgiving nature makes them excellent for learning to read plant signals.

How to Water

When you water, water thoroughly until liquid drains from the bottom of the pot. This ensures the entire root system receives moisture and helps flush out accumulated salts. Always empty the saucer after 30 minutes because pothos roots should never sit in standing water.

Seasonal Adjustments

Pothos needs less water in winter when growth slows and days are shorter. During the growing season (spring through fall), you may water every one to two weeks. In winter, watering every two to three weeks is often sufficient. Always check the soil rather than following a calendar.

Overwatering vs. Underwatering

Overwatering signs: Yellowing leaves, especially lower leaves; mushy stems; brown spots with yellow halos; soil that stays wet for weeks; root rot.

Underwatering signs: Drooping, wilting leaves; dry, crispy brown leaf edges; soil pulling away from pot edges; slow growth.

Pothos recovers more easily from underwatering than overwatering. When in doubt, wait an extra day before watering.

Water Quality

Pothos is not particularly fussy about water quality. Regular tap water is fine for most locations. If your water is heavily chlorinated, letting it sit overnight before use allows chlorine to dissipate. Very hard water may cause mineral deposits on leaves over time.

Soil and Potting

The right soil and pot help maintain the moisture balance that keeps pothos healthy while preventing the soggy conditions that lead to root rot.

Best Soil Mix

Pothos thrives in well-draining potting soil that retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged. A standard indoor potting mix works well for most pothos plants. For extra drainage, especially if you tend to overwater, mix in perlite at a ratio of about 2:1 (two parts potting mix to one part perlite).

Avoid heavy garden soil, which compacts and stays too wet. Also avoid pure peat mixes, which can become hydrophobic when dry and are difficult to rewet evenly.

Pot Selection

Always choose pots with drainage holes. Pothos can grow in almost any container, but drainage is non-negotiable. Plastic, ceramic, and terracotta pots all work well, each with different characteristics.

Plastic pots: Lightweight and retain moisture longer. Good for pothos in bright light that dry out quickly.

Terracotta pots: Porous material wicks moisture from soil, helping prevent overwatering. Good for pothos in lower light or humid environments.

Ceramic pots: Offer a middle ground in moisture retention and come in many decorative styles.

Repotting

Pothos needs repotting every one to two years or when roots grow through drainage holes. Choose a pot only one to two inches larger than the current pot. Too large a pot holds excess moisture and can lead to root rot.

Spring is the best time to repot, though pothos is resilient enough to handle repotting in any season if necessary.

Temperature and Humidity

As tropical plants, pothos prefer warm conditions but adapt well to typical household environments.

Temperature Range

Pothos thrives in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (18-29 degrees Celsius). They tolerate temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) but growth slows significantly below 60 degrees. Never expose pothos to frost, which causes severe damage.

Avoid placing pothos near cold drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents. Also keep away from heat sources like radiators and heating vents, which dry out the air and soil rapidly.

Humidity Preferences

Pothos tolerates average household humidity of 40-60% without issues. However, they appreciate higher humidity and will grow more vigorously with some extra moisture in the air. Brown leaf tips can indicate humidity that is too low.

Easy ways to increase humidity include grouping plants together, using a pebble tray with water, placing plants in naturally humid rooms like bathrooms, or running a humidifier. Misting is less effective because the moisture evaporates quickly.

Fertilizing

Regular fertilization supports healthy growth and maintains the vibrant foliage that makes pothos so attractive.

Fertilizer Type

A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer works well for pothos. Look for an NPK ratio of 20-20-20 or similar. Some growers prefer fertilizers slightly higher in nitrogen (the first number) to promote lush foliage growth.

Dilute the fertilizer to half the recommended strength to prevent fertilizer burn. Pothos is not a heavy feeder and too much fertilizer can damage roots.

Feeding Schedule

Fertilize monthly during the growing season (spring through early fall). Stop fertilizing in winter when growth naturally slows. Feeding dormant plants wastes fertilizer and can damage roots.

If your pothos lives in water rather than soil, fertilize more lightly but consistently because water provides no nutrients. A few drops of liquid fertilizer every month keeps water-grown pothos healthy.

Propagation Methods

Pothos is one of the easiest plants to propagate, making it simple to expand your collection or share with friends. Even complete beginners achieve high success rates.

Taking Cuttings

Select a healthy vine and cut just below a node (the small brown bump on the stem where aerial roots and new leaves emerge). Each cutting should have at least one node and one or two leaves. Remove any leaves that would be submerged in water or buried in soil.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Clean cuts heal faster and reduce disease risk compared to torn or crushed stems.

Water Propagation

Water propagation is the most popular method because you can watch roots develop. Place cuttings in a jar of room-temperature water with the node submerged and leaves above water. Use a clear container so you can monitor root growth.

Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent bacterial growth. Place the jar in bright, indirect light. Roots typically appear within one to three weeks. Once roots are two to three inches long, you can transplant to soil or continue growing in water.

Soil Propagation

You can root cuttings directly in soil, which eliminates the transplant shock that sometimes occurs when moving water-rooted cuttings to soil. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), then plant in moist potting mix with the node buried.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy until roots establish. A plastic bag loosely draped over the pot creates humidity that encourages rooting. Remove the bag once you see new growth, which indicates successful rooting.

Growing Pothos in Water Long-Term

Unlike many plants, pothos can live in water indefinitely. Water-grown pothos makes beautiful, low-maintenance decor. Change the water weekly and add a drop of liquid fertilizer monthly. Note that water-grown plants will have slower growth and smaller leaves than soil-grown plants.

Pruning and Training

Regular pruning keeps pothos looking full and healthy while preventing leggy, sparse growth. Training vines allows you to shape your plant however you like.

When to Prune

Prune any time you want to maintain shape or encourage fuller growth. Spring is ideal for major pruning because plants recover quickly during the growing season. Light trimming can happen year-round.

How to Prune

Cut just above a leaf node. This is where new growth will emerge. Remove leggy vines, damaged leaves, and any growth that has gotten out of control. Do not hesitate to prune significantly because pothos responds well to even heavy pruning by producing new, fuller growth.

Save your cuttings for propagation. Every trim is an opportunity for new plants.

Training Vines

Pothos vines can be trained in various directions. Use small hooks, clips, or tape to guide vines along walls, shelves, or mantels. For climbing plants, provide a moss pole or trellis. Climbing pothos typically produces larger leaves than trailing pothos.

Styling and Display Ideas

Pothos's versatility makes it perfect for creative display options throughout your home.

Hanging Baskets

The classic pothos display showcases cascading vines trailing down from a hanging basket. This works beautifully in front of windows, from ceiling hooks, or on high shelves. Macrame hangers add bohemian style.

Climbing Displays

Give pothos a moss pole or trellis to climb, and watch leaves grow progressively larger. This mimics the plant's natural jungle habitat and creates an impressive vertical statement.

Shelf Styling

Place pothos on high shelves and let vines trail down. The cascading effect softens hard architectural lines and adds life to book displays or art arrangements.

Wall Vines

Use command hooks to train pothos across walls and around door frames. This creates a living wall effect without permanent damage to surfaces. Regular repositioning keeps growth full rather than leggy.

Water Displays

Pothos cuttings in decorative vases, bottles, or propagation stations make elegant tabletop displays. The contrast of green leaves against clear glass filled with water is simple yet striking.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even hardy pothos can encounter problems. Quick identification and action keeps minor issues from becoming major ones.

Yellow Leaves

Cause: Usually overwatering, but can also indicate underwatering, insufficient light, or natural aging of lower leaves.

Solution: Check soil moisture. If soggy, let dry completely before watering again. If bone dry, water thoroughly. Remove yellow leaves because they will not recover.

Brown Leaf Tips

Cause: Low humidity, underwatering, overfertilizing, or fluoride in tap water.

Solution: Increase humidity, adjust watering schedule, flush soil to remove salt buildup, or switch to filtered water.

Leggy Growth

Cause: Insufficient light causes vines to stretch toward available light, with large gaps between leaves.

Solution: Move to brighter location. Prune leggy sections and propagate the cuttings for fuller plants.

Loss of Variegation

Cause: Inadequate light causes variegated plants to produce more chlorophyll (green) to compensate.

Solution: Move to brighter light. Prune reverted (solid green) sections to encourage variegated growth.

Root Rot

Cause: Overwatering and poor drainage leading to fungal infection of roots.

Solution: Remove plant from pot, cut away brown or mushy roots, repot in fresh soil with good drainage, and reduce watering frequency.

Common Pests

Pothos occasionally attracts mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects. Inspect plants regularly, especially undersides of leaves. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Isolate affected plants to prevent spread.

Pet Safety

An important consideration: pothos is toxic to cats and dogs. All parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals, which cause irritation and discomfort if ingested.

Symptoms of ingestion include: Oral irritation and pain, drooling, difficulty swallowing, vomiting, and decreased appetite.

While pothos poisoning is rarely fatal, it causes significant discomfort. Keep plants out of reach of curious pets by using hanging planters, high shelves, or rooms that pets cannot access. If your pet chews on plants, consider choosing pet-safe alternatives instead.

If you suspect your pet has eaten pothos, rinse their mouth with water and contact your veterinarian for guidance.

Frequently Asked Questions